Marianna What better way to explore South Australia than in a van? So here is our first van life experience in Australia with a 7-day itinerary from Adelaide to Melbourne.
We chose to spend 21 days of November for our honeymoon in the Land Down Under, a country we fell in love with even before arriving. During the first week, we'll experience the famous van life, which is perfect and widely practiced here.
In this article, we'll share our road trip from Adelaide to Kangaroo Island, along the coast of South Australia, then onto the Great Ocean Road to Melbourne, with a stop at Phillip Island.
Day 1: Adelaide – Kangaroo Island (260km)
Van Pickup and Departure from Adelaide
After spending a couple of nights in the capital of South Australia, we rented a camper van from Cheapa Campa. After several searches and quotes, we found the vehicle that suited us perfectly.
I remember that to drive here, you need to have an international driver's license.
Ruggero seems like a child at the playground! He's focused on having the rental office staff explain the operation of everything while I immediately check for any damages. I photograph everything to avoid being charged for damages that aren't ours. I recommend doing this always when renting a vehicle to avoid unpleasant situations.
With the bureaucratic part done, we finally set off on our long-awaited 7-day itinerary. We head straight south to Cape Jervis to reach the beautiful and wild Kangaroo Island.
We are hopeful to be able to spot as many animals as possible.
McLaren Vale, Cape Jervis, Kangaroo Island
It's strange to drive on the opposite side of the road, but by the time we're out of the city, we've already gotten used to it. The scenery around us is amazing! On one side, the ocean, and on the other, expanses of green. Vast pastures of cattle and lush vineyards: it's McLaren Vale, where the famous Shiraz wine is produced.
It already feels like we're dreaming, and we've only just started.
Upon reaching Cape Jervis, we board the Sea Link ferry that will take us to Penneshaw in 45 minutes.
The crossing goes by quickly despite the slightly choppy sea. Arriving in Penneshaw, we are ready to visit the first stop of our 7-day on-the-road itinerary from Adelaide to Melbourne.
Let's immediately go hunting for spots worth stopping at.
Seal Bay, Bales Beach
We head straight to Seal Bay, but it's late and the park is closed. We'll try again tomorrow.
We decide to make a quick stop nearby to see Bales Beach. Intrigued by its intense red soil, we take a look at the beach. We find ourselves in a small bay with very fine white sand, and the sea, as turbulent as it is fascinating.
We stay there, completely absorbed, trying to imagine the most desolate land on Earth that lies beyond it: Antarctica.
We were ecstatic to find ourselves so far south, even though we had gone from the 33 degrees of the city to the 10 degrees of Kangaroo Island.
Before the evening sets in, we search for a place to stay for the night. The closest option is the Western KI Caravan Park & Wildlife Reserve, which we recommend along with its restaurant.
For us, it's a new experience. We expected to check in somehow, but in reality, there's no one at the entrance except for the adorable wallabies. All the hookup posts are active, and only a few days later do we realize that this is how it works in all the campsites we'll encounter. If you arrive late at night, you can use the facilities, and when you leave, you pay.
This complete trust in people unsettles us, yet at the same time, we find it to be extraordinary.
Day 2: Kangaroo Island – Cape Jervis (180km)
Flinders Chase National Park, Remarkable Rocks
Our first night in the van surpasses expectations; we slept in absolute quietness, with only the sounds of nature around us. In the morning, we rise early, ready for a day of exploring the island and its parks. We have the ferry back to Cape Jervis at 5:30 p.m., so we can't afford to waste any time!
We decide to visit only the part of Flinders Chase National Park from Cap Couedic to Remarkable Rocks, which is located at the westernmost tip of the island. This park was heavily damaged by the fires during the Australian summer in January 2020. We, having been here the year before, were dismayed watching the disastrous images of this sad event on TV. Nature is resilient, and we are certain that the island has returned stronger and more beautiful than ever!
If you have the time and enjoy hiking, we highly recommend visiting the park via the Wilderness Trail. Alternatively, you can do as we did and drive to the various lookout points in your own vehicle.
We recommend starting your journey at the visitor center of the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park, getting a map, and going on a quest to spot kangaroos and koalas.
After a short walk, we return to the van and begin our journey to explore this park. We head towards the Remarkable Rocks, granite rocks that have taken 500 million years to form into the shape we see today due to rain, wind, and pounding waves.
Cap Couedic, Admiral Arch
Later, we head to Cap Couedic, where we find the lighthouse of the same name. It was built in the early 1900s with 2000 pieces of local stone, along with three cottages. The lighthouse keeper, the two assistants, and their families used to live here. In the early years, there was no access by land, only by sea.
Upon arriving, we couldn't miss the Lighthouse Heritage Walk, a scenic 10-minute stroll that leads us to the Admiral Arch. This natural arch formed over thousands of years due to sea erosion, distinguished by its numerous stalactites. It also hosts a large colony of sea lions that come here to breed in the summer. Watch the pups play among the waves of the sea!
Between May and October, it's possible to spot whales during their migration phase, while dolphins can be found here all year round.
Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park
We conclude our park visit by returning to the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park. This time, we enter the actual center where we have the opportunity to get up close to many species of native animals. We stroll among the kangaroos and have fun feeding the hungriest ones with food provided by the staff. Here, it's also possible to cuddle koalas and hold them! Unfortunately for us, it wasn't possible that day, but we're still happy to have contributed in our small way to helping them.
The park is also home to the Rescue Centre, where injured and sick animals are cared for and rehabilitated, and when possible, reintroduced into the wild.
Seal Bay Conservation Park
After filling our eyes and hearts with lots of tenderness, we leave the park and head to Seal Bay Conservation Park as our final stop.
This sheltered bay is the third-largest breeding ground for Australian sea lions. They live here all year round, always returning even after fishing for 3 days. Coral reefs protect this beach from shark attacks and the large ocean waves. On land, they are protected by dense vegetation, which is essential for the pups.
You can also take a beach walk accompanied by an authorized park guide. With them, you can get a closer look at the sea lions. We couldn't do it due to time constraints, but if we were to come back, we would definitely do it.
Little curiosity: Not far from the sea, there is a whale skeleton! A young humpback whale stranded here during a storm in 1984, likely separated from its mother during migration.
It's time for us to leave this extraordinary island and continue our itinerary. We board the ferry and once we arrive, we stop directly at Cape Jervis for the night.
Day 3: Cape Jervis – Robe (400km)
Coorong National Park, Pink Lake
We spend a very peaceful night at the Big4 camping, located along the road just after the harbor. After a delicious breakfast in the van, we head east without a specific destination in mind! That's the beauty of this van life from Adelaide to Melbourne! However, we must admit that this time we have a 7-day itinerary and a well-defined schedule to follow.
Along the way, we stop at the Port Elliott Bakery for a second breakfast. We were literally drawn to it when we noticed it, and if you happen to be passing through, we absolutely recommend trying some of their freshly baked delights.
A few kilometers down the road, we reach the Coorong National Park, which is entirely unknown to us, so we decide to pay it a visit. To reach the park, we cross vast pastures of cattle, vibrant green vineyards, and a few lakes. One lake, in particular, catches our eye with its pink hue. We discover that it's a salt lake called Pink Lake. We spend about an hour here, marveling at its changing colors depending on the clouds in the sky. We've seen it go from white to pink to deeper pink and back again, an incredible sight!
Accessing it is very easy; the lake is right along the road. There's a convenient parking area where you can leave your vehicle and take a walk.
42 Mile Crossing
We continue our journey, stopping at the 42 Mile Crossing on the advice of the Goolwa visitor center. We venture into the dense and low vegetation of the Coorong National Park, following the 1.5km trail. We reach the towering dunes of golden sand that protect the park from the ocean.
In this park, various species of birds live and nest, including the pelican.
We return to the van and head to Robe, where we will spend the night.
Day 4: Robe – Yambuk (364km)
Naracoorte Caves National Park
We wake up early and leave the coast to head towards the Australian inland. As the first stop of the day, we visit the Naracoorte Caves National Park. We explore the limestone caves with Frank, a very friendly local guide who reminded us a lot of Mr. Hammond from Jurassic Park! He managed to capture our attention so much that we felt like we had been transported to another era!
The park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994, is especially known for well-preserved fossils of the marsupial lion. The most famous cave is the Alexandra Cave, a spectacular chamber rich in stalactites so thin they are nicknamed straws.
Coonwarra Region, Mount Gambier
As our second stop, we can't miss indulging in a wine tasting! We find ourselves in the Coonawarra Region, renowned for producing Cabernet Sauvignon. We visit the oldest winery in the area, the Wynns Coonawarra Estate, to enjoy a great aperitif.
The third and final stop of this intense day is Mount Gambier, famous for its Blue Lake, a lake formed within the crater of a volcano. We drive around it in the van to admire it from all perspectives.
Finally, we continue towards Yambuk Caravan Park, a camping site that has truly captured our hearts with its location! Situated on the shores of the lake of the same name and separated from the ocean by a thin strip of land, it offers an invaluable view.
We quickly park and rush to the beach to admire the sunset, the most memorable one since we started our journey.
Day 5: Yambuk – Apollo Bay (204km)
Great Ocean Road, Bay of Islands
Up early today as we tackle the Great Ocean Road, the main reason we chose van life and this 7-day itinerary from Adelaide to Melbourne.
We'll travel the entire length of the GOR to savor every single kilometer. So, we head towards B100, the weather isn't on our side, it's cloudy and raining, but we don't let it dampen our spirits. Excitedly, we drive until we reach the sign marking the beginning of the road.
Questo tratto di costa che rende la Great Ocean Road così scenografica è chiamata Bay of Islands, un’insieme di isolette, archi, grotte e rocce erose nel tempo dal vento e dall’oceano. Le onde, grazie ai venti che arrivano dall’Antartide, possono arrivare fino a 30 metri d’altezza durante una tempesta e non c’è nulla che le possa fermare. Nonostante le condizioni meteo possano essere molto avverse, qui vive l’ultimo di pochissimi e timidi uccelli: il piviere incappucciato. Oltre a lui è casa anche di altre specie di uccelli e alcuni animali marini come l’otaria orsina e il pinguino fatato.
The Grotto, London Bridge, The Arch
We set off again and in no time find ourselves in front of The Grotto, London Bridge, and The Arch, rock formations also shaped like arches by the erosion of the sea and wind. You should know that on January 15, 1990, the first arch of London Bridge, the one connected to the coast, collapsed, creating an island. Fortunately, there were no injuries; however, two people were stranded on the new islet and were rescued hours later by a helicopter.
Loch Ard Gorge
We continue towards Loch Ard Gorge, a gorge named after a ship that shipwrecked due to the sea and wind pushing the vessel against the rugged coast. Only two of the 54 passengers on board survived. Curious and fascinated by this story, we descend to the beach and try to imagine what happened. The rock is incredibly tall from this perspective, and it's amazing to think how Tom, the apprentice sailor who survived, managed to climb to safety with himself and Eva, the 18-year-old Irish passenger.
Meanwhile, a wonderful sun has come out, illuminating the colors of this land.
12 Apostles
We return to the van and head towards the absolute highlight of the Great Ocean Road: the 12 Apostles, majestic limestone pillars once connected to the mainland. In the past, they were caves, then arches that collapsed, becoming columns up to 45 meters high. Today, 8 of them remain, but erosion continues, and it's easy to predict that new ones will emerge in the future.
To get the best possible perspective, we decided to fly over the coast in a helicopter and purchased the tour directly on-site from 12 Apostles Helicopters. Since we didn't book in advance, we had to wait. A piece of advice we'd like to give you is to buy this tour beforehand; you can do it here.
The spectacle is indescribable; from above, you fully perceive the power of nature in this part of the world. We are speechless, letting the pictures speak for themselves.
After finishing the helicopter tour, we follow the trail leading to the lookout to admire these incredible rock formations up close. We arrive just in time for sunset, and the spectacle once again provided by nature is indescribable!
If you have more time and the weather allows it, descend the 86 steps of Gibson Steps. Be amazed by two of the remaining eight columns: Gog and Magog. You'll be impressed by the cliffs on this beach, reaching heights of 70 meters.
The 12 Apostles are often described as "spectacular above and exceptionally beautiful below" due to the abundance of marine species that live in these waters, including the giant cuttlefish!
With our eyes full of beauty, we return to the van and head to Apollo Bay, the most famous and touristy town along the Great Ocean Road, nestled between the ocean and the hills. We'll spend the night at the BIG4 campground, which is well-equipped and offers great views.
Day 6: Apollo Bay – Phillip Island (290km)
Apollo Bay, Torquay
Bright and early, we set off towards Phillip Island to witness the famous Penguin Parade later in the evening.
From Apollo Bay, the landscape changes, becoming greener and less rugged. Cliffs are still present but gentler, and the road is full of ups and downs. The weather is unpredictable, with rain followed by sunshine and then more rain. In just a few kilometers, the scenery changes numerous times! We can't stop taking photos and videos, but most importantly, we can't stop smiling.
We stop at Kafe Koala for breakfast, a beautiful scenic spot and an excellent café. We continue towards Torquay, where we'll stop for lunch. If you love sushi, we highly recommend Roku Den, one of the best we've ever tried. We hit the road again and reach Queenscliff, where we board the ferry to Sorrento (yes, not related to the original Sorrento in Italy).
Phillip Island, Penguins Parade
On Phillip Island, famous especially for its Australian MotoGP circuit, live the world's smallest penguins, standing no more than 30 cm tall, also known as little blue penguins. They mainly nest at Summerland Beach. Every evening, they return together, creating a real parade that you can witness. At sunset, after a tiring day of fishing, they come back to the island to spend the night among the dunes where they have built their nests.
On these dunes, there are two platforms connected by boardwalks where you can admire these adorable animals without disturbing their habits. We are in a protected natural park; you can purchase your entrance ticket here.
We settle on the beach in the designated area, equipped with blankets provided by the park, and wait eagerly. It's very cold, but nevertheless, we wait for our little friends.
As soon as it gets dark, we start to see the first adorable and funny penguins arriving from the sea! They form small groups of 4/5 and return cautiously, making sure there are no dangers in sight. A bit clumsy but confident, they head towards the vegetation where the burrows are hidden. Suddenly, they are all around us, busy settling in for the night, unaware of the many eyes watching them. We are both extremely excited; it's an experience that only nature can give us.
With a heart full of joy, we also return to our wheeled nest.
Day 7: Philip Island – Melbourne (166km)
Koala Conservation Centre
It's time to say goodbye to Phillip Island and also to the van that we will leave in Melbourne later this afternoon. Before that, we are going to visit the Koala Conservation Centre. It's right next to the camping area where we slept among the eucalyptus trees, so we'll walk there.
The natural Australian bushland of this small island is home to a wild population of koalas, and thanks to two designated paths, it's possible to observe them up close.
Nobbies Visitor Centre, Melbourne
We finally visit the Nobbies Visitor Centre, where we find numerous pieces of information about the island, its flora, and local fauna.
The center is located in a beautiful position where you can enjoy a stunning view of the coast, the perfect way to conclude this first part of the 7-day journey from Adelaide to Melbourne.
In the afternoon, we leave Phillip Island and head towards the highway. We'll return the van later and bid farewell to van life. With an Uber, we'll go to the center of Melbourne where a new part of the journey will begin.
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see you in a WILD
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